This was the best bike ride I have ever done – an amazing journey of 500 miles, which was mountainous most of the way. The 2 Kevs and I started it and we dubbed our journey three atheists on a pilgrimage. We collected our pilgrims’ stamps in our pilgrim’s passport which allowed us to stay in pilgrims’ hostels. After a few days we stayed in hotels because they were almost as cheap and they didn’t kick you out at 8 in the morning. We met a new friend, Patrick on the meseta, who cycled with us for the rest of the journey. Apart from Santiago, Leon was the friendliest and most interesting stop off. All along the route there was a wealth of medieval churches to visit and every town had a pilgrims’ menu lunch. By completing the pilgrimage believers will lose half of their sins (which half?).